Ethnographic Report: Exploring Marseille - Reflections from a Young Researcher

Ethnographic Report: Exploring Marseille - Reflections from a Young Researcher

During the month of May 2023, through the generosity of Campus France and the French Embassy in Lisbon I embarked on an ethnographic journey to the city of Marseille, France as a doctoral fellow. My goal was to understand the complex intersection of food, belonging, and well-being in contemporary society, specifically focusing on the social and cultural dynamics surrounding gastronomy and its impact on the community.

My stay in Marseille marked my first ethnographic experience as a young researcher; and as an observer and researcher, my perspective was constantly evolving. Through my field notes and academic diaries, I now share the reflections and observations I collected during this remarkable period.

Cultural and Social Connections in Marseille

Marseille proved to be a fascinating backdrop for my research. The city, located on the Mediterranean coast of France, displays an impressive diversity. As I walked through the streets and used the metro, I encountered a mosaic of different races and ethnicities that make up Marseille's cultural complexity. This diversity is not just ethnic; it is also economic. You can see these stark contrasts, that Marseille exhibits while walking through the streets: areas of social precarity are interspersed within regions of luxurious architecture, and rental prices continue to be exorbitant.

These differences are not just visual; they reflect a deeply ingrained political, economic, and social dynamic in the city. Social inequality is omnipresent, and political voices resonate vigorously throughout the city, with different social classes claiming their position, whether aligned with the right or left, progressive or liberal, and even anarchism. Politics is part of everyday conversation, whether in cafeterias on the way to work, or over a beer in bars at the end of the day.

Gastronomy and Local Identity

One of the most striking features of Marseille, and France as a whole, is the unique relationship that the French have with food. In Marseille, food is a constant presence, everywhere and all times. Traditional French gastronomy and traditional French cuisine meets multicultural immigrant cuisines and inheritances, and this fusion plays a vital role in the culture and local dynamics of the neighborhoods.

I witnessed the beautiful fusion of various culinary traditions and practices. In the vibrant neighborhoods of Marseille, food stalls, markets, and restaurants offered a dynamic tapestry of flavors, with North African, Italian, Spanish, and Middle Eastern influences. The multicultural and multi-ethnic nature of the city was unmistakably present in the dishes served and the interactions at these food establishments. People from different backgrounds would gather at local markets, sharing stories and recipes, forging a sense of community that transcended cultural boundaries. This cross-pollination of culinary experiences not only enriched the local gastronomy but also played a crucial role in strengthening the bonds between Marseille's diverse communities, emphasizing the power of food as a unifying force in this city of contrasts.

Regarding the French traditions what intrigued me the most was the French tradition of "Faire un cours," something unique to this context but can be roughly translated as “shopping for groceries”.

This tradition involves the act of the consumer visiting specialized shops for different types of ingredients, such as bread, cheese, wine, and charcuterie, it involves the consumer buying from local stores specializing in each category. This practice fosters small and local businesses and establishes a direct link between the final consumer and the producers. The idea behind this is to promote the local economy and strengthen the community.

For a researcher and chef like me, this approach to food in southern France was irresistible. The food dynamics of the region unfolded in a way I had never seen before. Each step, from ingredient selection to food preparation, followed a traditional and local order.

Comparing Food Cultures: Lisbon, Fortaleza, and Marseille

It is important to note that the impressions I share here are based on comparisons with how food products are sought after and consumed, and the dynamics of buying and selling that I observed in Lisbon, Portugal, where I now live and study and Fortaleza, Brazil where I grew up and spent a significant part of my life. I became immediately aware of how Marseille presented a fundamentally different approach to food.

The consumer approach in Marseille contrasts with the contemporary marketing logic, which typically involves seeking all products in large supermarkets. An approach whose difference entails several disadvantages. First, the traceability of food becomes challenging when acquiring products from large retail chains. And second, the excessive use of plastic packaging is common in these chains, harming sustainability and the environment.

On a social level, the lack of a direct connection between the producer and the final consumer does not promote the growth of the local economy or the community's well-being. The experience in Marseille highlighted the importance of establishing links between producers and consumers, emphasizing the value of a vibrant local economy and a community that cares about its own well-being.

Conclusion

My stay in Marseille provided a deep dive into the complexities of culture, politics, economics, and, most importantly, gastronomy. This experience prompted me to question contemporary consumption practices and reflect on how the relationship with food can shape local identity and social well-being.

The diversity and inequality I observed in Marseille inspired me to seek a deeper understanding of the interaction between food, belonging, and well-being. As I continue my dissertation entitled "Food, Belonging, and Well-being: Promoting a More Equal and Healthier Society - An Ethnographic Study with Social Projects that Use Gastronomy as a Tool for Social Transformation," I am determined to explore how gastronomy can be a positive force for social change.

Marseille, with its cultural complexity and richness, served as a catalyst for my research. The lessons learned in the coastal city of France continue to shape my academic journey and, hopefully, contribute to building a more equal and healthier society amidst diversity and cultural richness.

Journal entry by Samuel Brito, doctoral candidate in the Sustainability Sciences program at the University of Lisbon. Samuel can be reached at samuelalmeidabrito@gmail.com